Shakujii Park: Exploring the various shrines, temples, and castle ruins

Photo: Dojoji | FirePress Japan

▶︎ Shakujii Hikawa Shrine | 石神井氷川神社

Hikawa Shrine, also known as Shakujii Hikawa Shrine, is located in Nerima Ward, Tokyo, specifically in the southwest part of Shakujii Park. Established during the Ōei era (1394-1428), it was originally constructed within the castle grounds of Shakujii Castle by the local lord, the Toyoshima clan. The shrine was dedicated to soliciting spirits from Hikawa Shrine in Omiya.

When Shakujii Castle fell to Ota Dokan, Hikawa Shrine was relocated to its present site, becoming the primary guardian of the Shakujii area. One notable feature of this shrine is the presence of numerous subsidiary shrines within its precincts, including Haruna, Asama, Mitake, Afuri, Mitsumine, Kitano, Yahata, Mitake, Mishima, Suga, and Inari shrines. This diversity adds to the unique and rich cultural tapestry of Hikawa Shrine, reflecting its historical significance and spiritual importance in the region.

▶︎ Dojoji | 道場寺

Dojoji is a Soto sect temple situated in Shakujiidai, Nerima Ward, Tokyo.

Established in 1372 by Toyoshima Terutoki, it was initially constructed as the family temple for the Toyoshima clan. Originally affiliated with the Rinzai sect, the temple underwent a transformation in 1601 (Keicho 6), transitioning to the Soto sect.

The temple proudly holds the “Houjouuji Yasuin Banjou,” serving as a guarantee that the temple is exempt from taxes, emphasizing its historical and privileged status.

▶︎ Sanpoji Temple | 三宝寺

Sanpoji Temple, also known as Shakujii Fudoson and follows the Chisan Japanese sect of Shingon Buddhism (part of Tantric Buddhism), is situated in Shakujiidai, Nerima Ward, Tokyo, atop the Kichozan mountain. During the Edo period, it served as a main temple with branch temples and held the esteemed position of the 11th temple of the Kanto 36 Fudo Sacred Sites. Renowned for its historical significance, the temple complex, comprising of various temples and structures, is often recognized as both a power spot and an Instagram-worthy location.

Sanpoji Temple has played a pivotal role in the naming of nearby landmarks such as Sanpoji Pond in Shakujii Park. The pond, located across a narrow road, was once connected to Itsukushima Shrine, originally Benten Shrine under Sanpoji Temple. The name change occurred during the Meiji period’s separation of Shinto and Buddhism.

Established in 1394, the first year of the Ōei era, Sanpoji Temple’s original location was near Zenjo-in Temple, close to Shakujii Pond. It was dedicated to Katsugun Jizo and was constructed alongside Shakujii Castle as a prayer temple for the ruling Toshima clan. In 1477, the temple was moved to its present location after Toyoshima Yasutsune‘s defeat by Ota Dokan in the Battle of Egota-Numabukurohara.

Throughout history, Sanpoji Temple has received imperial favor, including commands from Emperor Go-Nara and territorial grants from the Later Hōjō clan during the Tenshō era. It garnered further recognition in the Edo period with six sub-temples and over 50 large temples. It became a favored location for falconry during Tokugawa Iemitsu’s reign, leading to the popular nickname “Onarimon.”

Post-Meiji Restoration, the temple faced challenges due to the separation of Shinto and Buddhism. In 1874, a fire destroyed the hall, leaving the temple in ruins. Reconstruction efforts began in 1919 but faced delays due to events like the Great Kantō Earthquake in 1923 and the Pacific War. The main hall was finally completed in 1953.

The temple precinct comprises several structures, including the main hall, Daishido (Okunoin), Onarimon gate, Belfry Hall, Nagayamon gate, Kannondo, Nemoto Daito (a wooden pagoda), and Daikokudo/Jizodo. The Peace Daikannon statue, the 9m tall “Eleven-faced Kannon Bodhisattva Statue,” and the Sanpoji Bamboo Grove are also notable features.

Sanpoji Temple continues to stand as a testament to history, spirituality, and cultural heritage, inviting visitors to explore its rich legacy and serene surroundings.

▶︎ Shakujii Castle Ruins | 石神井城社

▲ This hill is all that’s left of what used to be the Shakujii Castle.

▶︎ Shakujii Pond | 石神井池

▶︎ Former Uchida Family House | 旧内田家住宅

The former Uchida family residence follows a regular four-floor plan, featuring an 15.3m* ridge line. It includes a 10.9m section with Harima Hasama and a 6.4m section of Harima Hasama to the northwest. Constructed with a thatched roof, hipped roof, Yosemunezukuri, and hirairi hirairi, the 4.4m building is made of a kadoya thatched roof.

* The measurements here originally Japanese shakukan system of measurements like ma, shaku, ken, and tsubo. These have been omitted here for ease of understanding.

** A unit of length employed in the shakukan measurement system where 1 ken equals 6 shaku (approximately 1.8182 meters), while 1 square ken is equivalent to 1 tsubo (approximately 3.3058 square meters). It’s important to note that “ma” initially denoted the number of spaces between pillars (the number of pillars minus 1), and the length was not fixed.

Dating back to the early Meiji 20s, the construction date is estimated based on a document discovered in the attic, dated 1889, along with hearsay information and the use of Western-style nails from the initial build. The structure, form, finish of parts, and traces of the building suggest the incorporation of materials from Edo period houses.

Originally situated in Nakamura, Nerima Ward, the residence was dismantled in May 2007 and subsequently moved and restored in 2010 at Ikebuchi Historical Park. It serves as an outdoor exhibition facility for the Shakujii Park Furusato Cultural Center.

While there have been some partial renovations, the main components, structure, and original form of the building have been well-preserved. Notably, it stands as one of the few traditional thatched-roof private houses still existing in the ward.

There was a guide at the house that explained various things about the building and its long history.

▶︎ Nerima Shakujiikoen Furusato Museum
 練馬区立石神井公園ふるさと文化館

▶︎ Related Official Accounts

▶︎ Related Links

▶︎ Shakujii Hikawa Shrine | 神井氷川神社

▶︎ Dojoji | 道場寺

▶︎ Sanpoji Temple | 三宝寺

▶︎ Shakujii Castle Ruins

▶︎ Shakujii Pond

▶︎ Former Uchida Family House

▶︎ Shakujiikoen & Museum

Visiting Traditional Locations in Japan: Shrines and Temples – Meguro Fudō

Meguro Fudō main temple | Photo: Fire Press Japan

Meguro Fudō, a charming and historically significant temple in the Meguro area which offers a tranquil retreat from the bustling city. Just a short 10-minute walk from Fudo-mae Station on the Tokyo Meguro Line, this temple is dedicated to Acala or Fudō Myōō in Japanese meaning “Wisdom King”. The temple’s name is derived from the Meguro Fudō statue, characterized by its striking black eyes, which is where the area gets its name “Meguro” (lit. black eyes).

The temple itself occupies a relatively spacious site, nestled among tall trees that create a serene and peaceful atmosphere. During the summer, the exquisite hydrangeas and azaleas are illuminated at night which adds to the beauty of the surroundings. Inside the temple, you’ll find a small waterfall and pond, where people have traditionally purified themselves. Legend has it that the monk who founded the temple threw his staff on the ground to determine its placement, and the staff landed on this spot, causing a spring to gush forth.

Visitors to the temple may witness people partaking in singles rites, where it is believed that by performing specific rituals and confessing one’s desires for a partner, their wishes will be granted. Adjacent to the temple, you’ll find a small shrine surrounded by lush greenery and a pond teeming with wildlife.

About the Temple’s History (Click here to open)

Taieizan Ryusenji, also known as Meguro Fudō, is a temple affiliated with the Tendai sect. According to temple lore, it was established in the early Heian period in 808 AD and credited to Jikaku Daishi (Ennin), who was a prominent priest within the Tendai school of Buddhism in Japan, serving as its third Zasu. His contributions were pivotal in broadening the influence of the Tendai Order and in reintroducing essential teachings and resources from China. Particularly noteworthy were his efforts in transmitting esoteric Buddhist training and Pure Land teachings to Japan.

The primary deity enshrined here is the statue of Acala (Fudō Myōō), believed to be crafted by Jikaku Daishi himself. This temple holds the distinction of being the oldest Fudō sacred site in the Kanto region and ranks among the three major Fudo temples in Japan, alongside Kihara Fudoson (Kumamoto Prefecture) and Narita Fudoson (Chiba Prefecture).

In East Asian esoteric Buddhism, Acala is categorized among the Wisdom Kings and holds a prominent status among the five Wisdom Kings of the Womb Realm. Accordingly, he occupies a significant hierarchical position within the Mandala of the Two Realms. Acala, is a highly revered and widely recognized deity in Japanese Buddhism, particularly within the Shingon, Tendai, Zen, and Nichiren sects, as well as in Shugendō.

In the Edo period, the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, consecrated the Gofudo in five locations within Edo, including Mejiro, Meguro, Meaka, Meao, and Meki, to safeguard the city. The worship of Fudō gained popularity during the mid-Edo period, leading to a surge in devotees at Meguro Fudō. While most of its structures were destroyed during wartime, the main hall was reconstructed in 1981. However, two historic buildings that survived the fire, namely the Maefudo-do and Seishido-do, stand as precious examples of mid-Edo period Buddhist temple architecture.

Adjacent to the front stairs, you’ll find Dokko Falls, where two fresh streams of water still flow. In front of the waterfall stands a statue of “Mizukake Fudō Myōō”. Many worshipers visit to sprinkle water on the Fudō Myōō statue as part of their prayers.

In the temple’s cemetery at the rear, lies the grave of Aoki Konyō (1698-1769), a Dutch scholar from the mid-Edo period. Konyō earned the moniker “Sweet Potato Teacher” for his counsel to the eighth Shogun Yoshimune, urging the cultivation of sweet potatoes as a famine-prevention measure. Meguro Fudō Fair commemorates this tradition with a “sweet potato festival” held every October 28th.

▶︎ The Five Fudō Temples

The number five in Buddhist tradition is plentiful, such as the Five Buddhas or the Five Wisdoms, which are likewise based on the Five Senses, the idea of the Five Elements and their corresponding Five Virtues. Here is a list of the five (or rather six) Fudō, their alternate names, and their corresponding colors.

① Meguro   Ryusenji   Black
② Mejiro    Konjo-in    White
③ Meaka    Nankokuji   Red
④ Meao    Saishoji    Blue
⑤ Meki 1   Eikyuji     Yellow
⑥ Meki 2   Saishoji    Yellow

Map of Tokyo with the six temples listed. | Hamadayori

Curiously enough, all of the temples form an interesting circle around Tokyo which in turn corresponds to a station along the Yamanote train line. According to research done by the Hyaku Monogatari website, the oldest known mention of the 5 colored Goshiki Fudō comes from the Meiji era with connections to a mystery novel that was popular at the time. It was in this novel that, as a plot device, depicted the five temples creating a sort of circle of protection around Edo Castle at the center.

More regarding this is explained on the aforementioned site.

▶︎ The Image Gallery

Below are an assortment of images that I took while exploring the temple grounds.

Photos: Fire Press Japan


▶︎ Related Links

Visiting Traditional Locations in Japan: Shrines and Temples – Gohyaku Rakanji

Situated a mere 12 minutes from Meguro Station (JR Line) or 8 minutes from Fudo-mae Station (Meguro Line), Gohyaku Rakanji is a quaint little temple which houses hundreds of wooden statues of Rakan, disciples of Buddha, carved by Shōun Genkei himself between 1691-1710.

Considered an Important Cultural Property of Tokyo, this is a must-see location for any enthusiast in traditional Japanese culture and more.

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